Table of contents(14)+
- 01The 30-Second Test: Which Method Fits Your Non-Smart TV
- 02Method 1: Add a Streaming Device and Control It From Your Phone
- 03Method 2: Check Your Phone for a Built-In Infrared Blaster
- 04Method 3: Pair an External Infrared Hub With a Universal Remote App
- 05Method 4: Fall Back to a Physical Universal Remote
- 06Comparing Your Options
- 07Frequently Asked Questions
- 08Can I use a universal remote app without Wi-Fi?
- 09Do any iPhones have a built-in IR blaster?
- 10How do I know if my TV supports HDMI-CEC?
- 11Will a universal remote app work on a TV with no remote at all?
- 12Is there a free universal remote app for a non-smart TV?
- 13Does HiRemote work on a non-smart TV?
- 14Related Guides
We get this question from readers a lot. Their main TV still works fine. It just never shipped with Wi-Fi or an app store. In our experience, the real fix depends on what's plugged into the TV. It doesn't depend on which app you download. A phone app needs something on the other end that can pick up a wireless signal. Hisense VIDAA, Android TV, and Roku TV models can do that out of the box. A true non-smart TV usually can't, until you add something that gives it one.
The 30-Second Test: Which Method Fits Your Non-Smart TV
Answer these two questions first. They point you to the right method fast.
- Is a streaming box or stick already plugged into an HDMI port on the TV? If yes, start with Method 1.
- Does your phone already have an app called something like 'Remote Control' or 'Smart Remote'? If yes, jump to Method 2.
- Neither applies, and you just want something that works today? Go straight to Method 4 for a physical universal remote.
Suppose that streaming box is a Roku. That includes Hisense, TCL, and Insignia models that run Roku TV. You can skip the app store entirely. HiRemote's free browser-based Roku remote controls it instead. It pairs over Wi-Fi in 30 seconds, with no account and no install.
Method 1: Add a Streaming Device and Control It From Your Phone
A streaming device plugs into the TV's HDMI port. That's a Roku, Fire TV, Apple TV, or a Chromecast with Google TV. It gives a non-smart TV the one thing it's missing: a network connection. The TV itself stays non-smart. The streaming device becomes the part your phone talks to.
Most streaming devices have a free companion remote app. It runs over the same Wi-Fi network as your phone. You can browse, search, and launch streaming apps without touching a physical remote.
Some streaming devices also support HDMI-CEC. This feature can pass power and volume commands through to the TV. It only works if the TV supports CEC and the setting is turned on.
Not sure your streaming stick is set up for this? Our guide to using a Roku remote online walks through finding its IP address and testing the connection.
When it won't work: this method only helps once a streaming device is already connected. It also won't fix the TV's own power button or volume rocker if your TV doesn't support HDMI-CEC. You'll still reach for those by hand.
Method 2: Check Your Phone for a Built-In Infrared Blaster
A small number of phones have a built-in infrared port. Most of these are older Android models. If yours has one, a universal remote app can send the same infrared signal your original TV remote used.
Open your phone's app drawer. Look for a preinstalled app named something like 'Remote Control,' 'Smart Remote,' or 'Quick Remote.' Several phone makers preload one of these. Plenty of owners never notice it's there.
When it won't work: iPhones have never included a built-in infrared blaster. No iOS app can add one. Most newer Android phones dropped the feature too. If you don't see a remote app already installed, your phone almost certainly doesn't have the hardware for it.
Method 3: Pair an External Infrared Hub With a Universal Remote App
If your phone has no built-in IR blaster, a small plug-in IR hub can add one. These are separate accessories, usually a compact box. They join your Wi-Fi network and relay commands from a phone app to any TV within line of sight.
Setup is usually similar across brands. Plug the hub in near the TV. Connect it to Wi-Fi inside its companion app. Then enter your TV's brand or remote code so the hub knows which signal to send.
When it won't work: the hub needs a clear line of sight to the TV's infrared sensor. It has to sit near or on top of the set. A closed cabinet door blocks the signal completely.
Weighing a smart-TV upgrade instead of an IR hub? It helps to know what a smart-TV remote app actually covers. HiRemote is a free iPhone app built for Hisense VIDAA, Android TV, and Roku TV models. It pairs over Wi-Fi in 30 seconds. It also adds a full keyboard for typing streaming app passwords — something no physical remote or IR hub does.
Method 4: Fall Back to a Physical Universal Remote
A handheld universal remote is still the most reliable fix for a non-smart TV. These work over infrared, the same signal your original remote used. Most non-smart TVs keep a working infrared receiver long after the original remote is gone.
You'll set it up by entering your TV brand's remote code. Or you can hold a setup button while the remote cycles through codes until the power button responds. Our universal remote control setup guide covers both methods step by step.
When it won't work: a handful of very old TVs use codes that aren't in the usual database. Some use signals that aren't standard infrared at all. If nothing works after trying every code, the physical buttons on the TV itself are the last resort.
Comparing Your Options
Here's how the four methods stack up once you know what hardware you're starting with.
| Method | Extra hardware needed | Works without Wi-Fi | Controls TV power/volume |
|---|---|---|---|
| Streaming device + app | Yes (the streaming device) | No | Only if the TV supports HDMI-CEC |
| Phone's built-in IR blaster | No, if your phone has one | Yes | Yes |
| External IR hub | Yes (the hub) | No (needs Wi-Fi to set up) | Yes |
| Physical universal remote | Yes (the remote itself) | Yes | Yes |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a universal remote app without Wi-Fi?
Yes, but only if your phone has a built-in infrared blaster or you've added an external IR accessory. Apps that rely on Wi-Fi, including most streaming-device remotes, need a network connection to reach the TV. Infrared-based apps send signals directly through the air, line of sight, so they work with no network at all.
Do any iPhones have a built-in IR blaster?
No. iPhones have never shipped with a built-in infrared blaster, so no iOS app can turn an iPhone into a direct infrared remote. iPhone owners need another option instead. That's an external IR hub accessory, a streaming device connected over Wi-Fi, or a standard physical universal remote.
How do I know if my TV supports HDMI-CEC?
Check the TV's settings menu for an option related to HDMI control — the exact wording varies by brand. If a connected streaming device can turn the TV on or adjust its volume automatically, CEC is active. Many non-smart and older TVs don't include CEC support at all.
Will a universal remote app work on a TV with no remote at all?
It depends on what the TV itself can receive, not whether you still have the original remote. A working infrared sensor lets both an IR-equipped phone and a handheld universal remote control the set. If the TV has neither Wi-Fi nor a working infrared sensor, no app and no accessory will reach it.
Is there a free universal remote app for a non-smart TV?
Free apps exist for phones with a built-in infrared blaster. Free apps also exist for streaming devices already connected over Wi-Fi. A true non-smart TV with neither feature can't be reached by any app for free. In that case, a basic physical universal remote is usually the simpler path.
Does HiRemote work on a non-smart TV?
No. HiRemote connects to Hisense VIDAA, Android TV, and Roku TV models over home Wi-Fi. It needs a smart TV with network access to work at all. A true non-smart TV without Wi-Fi can't pair with HiRemote, or with any other Wi-Fi-based remote app.
